Travel report: Around Lake Constance in six days

Dreamlike sunshine, lush flower gardens, famous poets - a cycling vacation on Lake Constance that could not be more beautiful. On a rental bike around Lake Constance through three countries. Sporty relaxation starting and finishing in the historic city of Constance. Our guest Inge writes about the experiences of her 6-day tour around Lake Constance.

Journey to Constance

Lake Constance is associated with many memories from long ago. That is why we are looking forward to traveling to Constance, our starting point for the round trip.
On Saturday, 4 May 2019, we will arrive by train without bicycles. Our tour operator Radweg-Reisen has reserved the hotels for this trip for us and has chosen the apartment hotel in Petershausen for our stay in Constance; a converted barracks complex which, however, is not recognizable as such. It was built over 100 years ago with the aim of retaining a residential character. The ceiling heights, which are high by today's standards, and the lovingly designed arched lattice windows are striking. The staff give us a friendly welcome and clear the room for check-in. Afterwards, there is enough time for a stroll through the old town. As soon as we cross the Old Town Bridge, we can get a whiff of the sea air and our vacation can begin.

1st day of cycling

Contrary to expectations, the weather becomes increasingly friendly and rewards us with sunshine during the day. We cycle across the Hörnle outdoor pool complex towards the island of Mainau. Even in the outdoor area, the lavish flower gardens beckon.

A pause in the church seems to have brought me luck (if you want to call it luck), because a passer-by found a black glove and speculated that it might be mine. And it was. Wearing gloves was not only useful and necessary on this day, as the wind was cold. And so it happened that I took the glove off to take a photo and then lost it.

The journey continues past the pile dwellings in Unteruhldingen to Meersburg. Here we push our bikes up the steep ascent to the upper town, past the old castle, past the new castle to the Gutsschenke inn. We enjoy our coffee break in the defiant, cozy walls before taking in the view of the lake from the terrace.

And the view never ceases to amaze us: beyond the lake, the snow-capped mountains of Switzerland greet us and below, the water glistens and reflects the sun's rays when the clouds allow it. The white Lake Constance fleet and the ferries from Staad to Meersburg - simply magnificent.

Annette von Droste-Hülshoff's poet's cottage is located a little further up the mountainside. It is a gem and well worth a detour.
We make our way towards Hagnau. We don't want to visit the Weingut Aufricht winery this time, as we already got to know the location and ambience of the winery on a previous trip. Tasting a glass of delicious wine on the winery's balcony with a view of the Alps - what more do you need to be happy?

Friedrichshafen

Lake Constance is often referred to as the Swabian Sea. This is only partly correct, as the lake covers the Baden, Württemberg and Bavarian parts on the German side. Friedrichshafen belongs to the Swabian part of Lake Constance and was named after King Frederick of Württemberg. The king ensured that the former imperial town of Buchhorn was given a port and a new name to go with it. The Zeppelin Museum in this town is always a worthwhile destination.

The Gasthaus Rebstock in Friedrichshafen will be our accommodation for the night and we are given the key number 27 at check-in. The room in the rear building is barely suitable for turning around, so small and so cramped. This also applies to the bathroom. However, the guest room was quite nice, rustic and cozy. The breakfast was manageable and hand-picked. However, it was always replenished when needed. For me as a coffee connoisseur, the highlight of the breakfast was the delicious Darboven coffee.

2nd cycling day

It's Tuesday morning, 07.05.19. We set off at 9.00 am! This day was supposed to be absolutely sunny - and it was. We set off on our second stage in beautiful sunshine. We have around 35 km ahead of us today. The route takes us along orchards. Tractors are busy driving through the orchards and cultivating the fields. This is how the fruit growers ensure a bountiful harvest.

We stroll through the old alleyways of the venerable town, past the imposing town hall to the market square with its two churches. The two churches - Protestant and Catholic - seem to peacefully coexist. As the itinerary is short today, we spend a long time in this idyllic town.
After that, it's time to say goodbye to Lindau, until another time!

We look for our accommodation, Hotel Nagel in the Zech district near the Austrian border. A little difficult to find. You have to cross the tracks to the left near the campsite and then you will find the hotel. But the search should be worthwhile: a real treasure: newly built, modern and with clear lines. We receive a friendly welcome and are able to check in.

We are thrilled by the attention to detail in the rooms.

There was a swimming pool in the inner courtyard of the complex, which was currently being renovated. So there was no swimming. However, the barrel sauna on the roof terrace was heated up early for us. For us sauna lovers, this was a special experience: with images of the previous days in our heads - and now chilling out and enjoying the warm evening sun on our skin!

3rd cycling day

It's Wednesday morning, 08.05.2019, 9.00 am. As announced by the weather service, it's supposed to be overcast today. We get our bikes from the outhouse and look forward to the 5 km ride to Bregenz. The hazy weather doesn't encourage us to visit the Pfänder. However, we really want to see the lake stage. This year, Rigoletto by Verdi is being performed and the set-up seems a little bizarre without any actors.

Continue along the well-maintained and signposted cycle path with a short detour at Mehrerau Monastery. And after Hard we cross the old Rhine. At Fußach, we reach the Rhine delta nature reserve. From here, the cycle route takes us across fields and meadows a few kilometers inland to reach the border station with Switzerland.

In Gaißau, we enter Swiss territory. There are no border officials to be seen, proving that the Schengen Agreement also applies here. The cycle paths in Switzerland are generally not well signposted and often run alongside busy roads. As a result, we gradually get the feeling that the Swiss don't really want us cyclists. We are glad to reach Rorschach, a town that we quickly leave again. The traffic concept is anachronistic. It seems that urban development has been completely overslept: Car traffic squeezes through the narrow main street and there are no architectural gems worth mentioning in the city center. Only the park and the complex of the Hohenlohe Würth Group make the sight somewhat bearable. There is a recommendable exhibition in the building.

Arbon

The route continues via Horn - now again on a beautiful cycle path along the riverbank - to our next stage destination: Arbon. After a total distance of around 50 km, we reach this town, which immediately welcomes us with its imposing castle, old town walls and beautiful alleyways. After checking into the old Braugasthof Frohsinn, we explore the town.

The old half-timbered houses have been beautifully restored and the town's history can be traced in the literal sense with the help of a guide. The "Römerhof" is now a four-star hotel and the lady at reception gives us an insight into the pretty rooms. In the evening, we fortify ourselves with home-brewed beer and a hearty plate of rösti in the brewery cellar of our brewery inn.

And the next morning, the sun welcomes us to the last stage of our cycle tour.

4th day of cycling

09.05.2019, 9.00 am. A manageable distance of just under 30 km lies ahead of us to our destination Konstanz. The weather god Peter is kind to us until we reach the port of Romanshorn, but then warm rain pours down on nature and people - and we are glad to have the appropriate rainwear with us.

On arrival in Kreuzlingen, we discover the Seeburgpark. It's worth making a stop here. The park is spacious with lots of greenery and plant borders. A flower and herb garden is currently being planted by a gardener.

We learn more about the Kreuzlingen-based company Rausch and its actual profession of producing herbal shampoos (I will get these later as a souvenir). Children and adults alike can enjoy a zoo enclosure with native animals (goats, pigs). The Seeburg with its restaurant is now owned by the town of Kreuzlingen. The large terrace with a view of Lake Constance invites you to relax. Here, too, a Swiss employee is happy to answer our curious questions. She shows us the halls and rooms, which are suitable for large and small celebrations.

After arriving in Constance, we refresh ourselves with a shandy and hot chocolate before moving back into our apartment hotel in Petershausen. We spend two more days in the largest city on Lake Constance and round off the wonderful trip with a meal at the Constance Council.