Travel report: The Danube Cycling Holiday

After the work in the garden became manageable, I decided to go on another cycling trip from 19.10. - 28.10.2024. As a passionate paddler, the Danube has long been on my bucket list. I had already cycled the Passau - Vienna route years ago and paddled the Danube near Sigmaringen, but now I wanted to enjoy the tranquil Danube from the very beginning, and in a sporty way.

On 19 October, my boyfriend took me to Donaueschingen by car and we started with a cycle tour along the Brigach and around the Riedsee. This is near Pfohren, the first village on the Danube. This was also the starting point for my cycle tour the next day.

The next morning after breakfast, I set off on my own. As I was staying in Aufen, I had an extra 3 kilometers to cover. First, I passed the source of the Danube in Donaueschingen. The ride through the castle park took me to the source of the Danube and thus kilometer zero, which is located in a beautiful floodplain landscape. This is where the Brigach and Breg rivers join to form the Danube.

The Danube's path begins inconspicuously and tranquilly; the Danube cycle path mostly runs alongside the watercourse. Between Immendingen and Tuttlingen, some of the Danube's water sinks and seeps underground. It makes its way underground in a southerly direction as far as the Hegau region. There, a large part of this water reappears in the Aach spring. At least that's how I had imagined it. However, you didn't notice anything of this in October, as the Danube carried water throughout. Along the cycle path, the process is well prepared for tourists, so you can get plenty of information.

After Tuttlingen, the Danube valley narrows and I couldn't stop being amazed. The cycle path was flanked by high mountains, cows grazing in the meadow and I cycled right through the middle. I wasn't prepared for this, the autumn colors of the trees did the rest and I found many worthwhile photo opportunities.

But it got even better, after Fridingen I made my way to my next accommodation, the Jägerhaus. I cycled past massive rock faces and great panoramic views for several kilometers, with the Danube accompanying me along the way. The Jägerhaus is idyllically situated in the middle of the mountains and directly on the Danube. I was delighted by the heavenly location and the good food.

The next day was exactly the same. I cycled off in the fog, but right past the rocks. Past Beuron Abbey, I reached Hausen. From here you can also paddle on the Danube. There are castles and castle ruins to marvel at and the rocks are reflected in the water, a very special nature experience.

The route continues to Obermarchtal, past Ulm to Donauwörth. There is no boat traffic here. Of course, I take a look at all the towns, and I particularly like Ulm. I was particularly impressed by the fact that Neu-Ulm is in Bavaria. The state border runs through the middle of the Danube, and you can admire the border line on the bridge. During my cycle tour, I cycle through various federal states. Sigmaringen is still Hohenzollern, i.e. Baden. From Scheer I am in Württemberg and shortly after Ulm Bavaria begins.

Between Ingolstadt and Regensburg there is another highlight, the Danube breakthrough. At Weltenburg Monastery, I get on the boat with my bike and cycle to Kelheim. A magnificent natural spectacle, the Danube forces its way through the rocks of the Franconian Jura mountains. It must be beautiful here for paddling. I visit the Liberation Hall in Kelheim and the Walhalla after Regensburg.

The journey continues via Deggendorf to Passau. There, the cruise ships depart for Vienna and Budapest. My cycle tour in the German part ends here, I take the train back home, a sporty 722 kilometers on the speedometer.

The route was easy to manage, 100 kilometers are easy to do in one day, as it is mostly flat. However, autumn has its pitfalls, the paths were damp and dirty due to drizzle and farmers' tractors, so the dirt got on the bike and under the mudguards. I went to the car wash twice. The hotels were very well chosen, I enjoyed the good breakfast, the friendly staff and sometimes there was even a wellness area. I chose Bavarian restaurants for dinner and enjoyed Kaiserschmarrn, apple strudel and steamed dumplings, and in Passau a Bavarian antipasti plate with Obazter and Kartoffelkas with an XL pretzel.

My mind is made up, I want a sequel. In spring 2025, I want to travel by boat and bike on the Danube from Passau to Budapest. In summer, I'll cycle from there to the Danube Delta. And my dream would be to paddle through the Danube Gorge by boat.