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Travel report: Alsace Wine Route
From our guests Renée and Doris
Day 1 - Arrival
Oh, let's hurry, I have to pick up my girlfriend.
She's already packed and standing in the hallway when I arrive. We make it easy for ourselves and take the car from Munich to Freiburg, so we girls can take a few extra shoes with us.
We also stop for lunch in Ravensburg and then take a leisurely drive along Lake Constance and through the impressive Höllental Valley to Freiburg. The Schlossberg garage is quickly found, the most important things are rolled a few meters through the pedestrian zone and we are warmly welcomed at the Schwarzwälder Hof. We buy a few muesli bars, grab a bite to eat and prepare everything for the panniers. We can't wait to get on our bikes!
Day 2 - from Freiburg to Colmar
There they are! Our e-bikes! The saddle bag is quickly loaded, my small shoulder bag with the most important things fits perfectly into the handlebar bag. We've had practice by now. After all, we already did a tour with Radweg-Reisen along the Altmühl last year.
Getting out of Freiburg towards Breisach is still difficult. We have to get used to the heavy bikes a bit. First, we have to familiarize ourselves with the route description and my tablet with the hiking maps. We turn around two or three times because we've taken a wrong turn.
In Breisach, we ask around in the small pedestrian zone to find out how to get to the hill with the large church. A building site blocks the way. Once at the top, we have a great view. We are on the Rhine!
On the way down, I am attracted by a former inn - the Haus zum roten Windhund. Of course, this is only interesting for people who once had a red greyhound - like me.
I cross the bridge over the Rhine into France. I'm starting to feel queasy - with my rudimentary French. But by lunch in Neuf-Brisach, that's no longer a problem, everything is in German-French-English.
We arrive in Colmar in the afternoon through wide fields (yes, the French also grow corn) and a beautiful wooded area. The hotel looks very French. Great, not a faceless bunker like it could be anywhere in the world. The old town is within walking distance, we leave the bikes safely in the backyard.
First an ice cream. And an awning. Because it's starting to rain. It's a good thing we're no longer on our bikes. After just a few minutes, we continue through the freshly washed Colmar. God, it's romantic here! We decide not to continue straight away tomorrow morning, but to take a boat trip on the small canal after breakfast. I also really want to visit the market hall!
Day 3 - from Colmar to Riquewihr
This time we take the bikes into town. We leave the panniers at the hotel.
We find a good sturdy stand for the bikes in a square with a pretty fountain.
Why are there so many Asians standing around here with big cameras? And up on a balcony? There's obviously a movie being filmed here about a Chinese restaurant, which is being lavishly decorated by even more Asian-looking people. And all this in the middle of Alsace!
The boat trip was very chilled. And I also get "my" market hall. Soo delicious things. And everything so appetizingly presented. Too bad we can't take anything with us. The fragrant cheese or the watermelon just don't make sense in the pannier.
We set off to describe a wide arc around Colmar. First stop in Eguisheim - wow, it's pretty here! A pope was born here. Leo the Ninth. His real name was Bruno - like the problem bear.
Via Turckheim, we cycle through beautiful vineyards to Riquewihr, always with a dark cloud behind us. But it should do us no harm, we stay dry. The hotel is quickly found, the directions in our booklet lead us from the tourist information office, we happen to be standing right in front of it.
A pretty town! Nice stores and lovely restaurants on every corner. A tarte flambée is a must today!
Day 4 - from Riquewihr to Obernai
Today we have a very nice stage through the vineyards and through pretty little villages. Always following the good signposting.
Our destination Obernai is very pretty. In the evening, we take a digestive walk up a hill on the edge of the town with a huge cross, a war memorial. A few more photos of the great evening atmosphere and off to the hotel to review the next stage. Tomorrow we're off to Strasbourg!
Show more Show lessDay 5 - from Obernai to Strasbourg
We leave Obernai with a heavy heart. The route is easy to find, as we had already walked here at the end of the town yesterday evening.
It should be a great stage.
We pass through a few villages and visit a Romanesque church before reaching Molsheim. We only pass through here, but I particularly like it. I find it very French. There is an impressive Renaissance building on the market square.
In Avolsheim we come across the Canal de la Bruche, which will take us to Strasbourg. An idyll! Small lock keepers' cottages on the banks, inhabited by enviable people.
The closer we get to Strasbourg, the more crowded the cycle path becomes. It's Saturday and the racing cyclists are already pedaling hard. We have a little race with one of them on our e-bikes just for fun. He gives up with a laugh.
In Strasbourg, we are staying directly opposite the station, which is easy to find. Our suitcases are already there! And it's only lunchtime! We quickly freshen up and set off on a tour of the city. We want to redeem our vouchers for the boat trip straight away. Beforehand, a delicious quiche lorraine, a quick look around the cathedral and off we go on the boat.
Day 6 - from Strasbourg to Ettenheim
After breakfast, we head straight down to the banks of the Ill and continue along it. We can't go wrong here. We pass the same beautiful houses up to the European Parliament that we had already passed by boat yesterday. The Europe Bridge takes us to the other bank of the Rhine. Au revoir France, see you again soon.
On the German side, we immediately turn sharp right onto the Radlweg, always directly along the banks of the Rhine. It is quite a river. For me, one of the most beautiful sections of this trip.
We should have turned off to Altenburg by now, where our description says there are places to stop for refreshments, but it's just so beautiful by the water and we stay on our way for a while, passing low-water areas and marinas. We were to regret it a little later when we couldn't find a coffee for what felt like 5 villages. A nice racing cyclist, who wanted to get to Strasbourg today, must have seen our frustration and recommended an ostrich restaurant in the next village. Bull's eye! Venison goulash and tarte flambée. And coffee! We can't believe it's only a few kilometers to Ettenheim. The stage was very entertaining.
Three kilometers after Ettenheim, we stop at a butcher's inn. We decide to eat here tonight. A good decision, as it turns out. Before that, we quickly drive back to Ettenheim and visit the baroque church. We're lucky, it's still open.
Day 7 - from Ettenheim to Freiburg
The first 25 km fly by. In Hecklingen, there is a ruined castle overlooking the town. We want to walk up, but a gardener shows us a path that we can easily manage on our bikes. Good thing we have e-bikes. Unfortunately, Lichteneck is not open to the public, but can be hired for private celebrations. That's a nice and special location.
In Bahlingen, we take a detour to a bathing lake, we don't want to have taken the picnic blanket with us for nothing, but give up when the marked access road no longer exists. There should be a possibility for us later at a small quarry pond.
A few more meters and Freiburg has us again. Unbelievably, 500 m from our hotel we are caught in a rain shower. 350 km without getting wet and now this. The nice room with the small balcony makes up for it. The landlord welcomes us with good humor and gives us tips for the next two days, which we will spend in Freiburg. I think the Glottertal is calling us tomorrow.
