Travel report: Cycle tour along the Main from Bamberg to Aschaffenburg
From our guests Margit and Hermann-Josef
We, Margit and Hermann-Josef, traveled from Bad Wörishofen, Gertrud, Matthias, Uschi and Wilfried from the Eifel region.
We met at our first hotel in glorious weather. Hotel Weierich, right in the city center, it couldn't be better. The nice, resolute owner explained to us that we didn't have to go to the parking garage, but could park for free on the street in the nearby residential area (quote: "In Bamberch there are only honest people, nothing gets stolen there").
We found a space for the three cars straight away. From there, we cycled back to the city (2 minutes).
Following further tips from our landlady, we visited this extraordinary, beautiful city, which is a must-see.
We had previously searched for the best restaurants in each destination city on TripAdvisor, but unfortunately we chose a different restaurant here on the recommendation of our landlady, which is not worth recommending. Thankfully, the breakfast at the hotel was very good and we set off on the first leg of our journey refreshed.
1st cycling day: Bamberg - Schweinfurt, approx. 60 km
We set off at 9.00 am in 24 degrees. The recommendation from our road book to visit the Dippach observation tower because of the largest gray heron colony was unfortunately in vain, not a single heron or other animal to be seen. We continued on to Zeil am Main, which is definitely worth a detour, a very beautiful place. Unfortunately, the wine festival didn't start until 4 p.m., so we continued without wine. In the beautiful Göller brewery restaurant "Zur alten Freyung" - hidden away in the town - my fellow travelers were not allowed to eat anything, much to their chagrin, as I had taken a picnic with me for the first day. But we took a six-pack of the good beer with us.
In Haßfurt at the fountain, the picnic was unpacked and consumed with good beer. At 30 degrees we continued to Mainberg, a very idyllic place, where the wine festival also started later. A very friendly winegrower took pity on us and, much to our delight, served us wine and water.
Bamberg
Thank goodness it was only 6 kilometers to Schweinfurt after the wine break. Also a nice city. We stayed at the lovely Hotel Kolping. We then had dinner in the old town on the market square at Pizzeria Aposto, highly recommended. Here, unfortunately, Wilfried fell on his new knee, which caused us some excitement. At the hotel, we had an ice pack to relieve the swelling.
Show more Show less
2nd cycling day: Schweinfurt - Kitzingen, approx. 60 km
The knee is still swollen, but thankfully Wilfried can continue cycling. We set off at 9.00 am in 25 degrees. In Wipfeld we made a short ferry crossing to the other side of the Main, which was a nice change. Wilfried and Uschi took the direct route to a wonderful beer garden in Volkach, Hinterhöfle, and then to Kitzingen. The other four of us visited the pilgrimage church Maria im Weingarten with the floating Madonna by Tilmann Riemenschneider just before Volkach, up in the vineyards. We also took a break in the Hinterhöfle in 34 degree weather. A very nice beer garden.
Show more Show less
In Volkach, we missed the recommended route to Escherndorf to the viewpoint, instead we found another viewpoint in the beautiful wine village of Sommerach with a wonderful panoramic view over the Main valley. After another detour to Schwarzach to the Benedictine monastery, we went to the Hotel Deutsches Haus in Kitzingen.
We also ate at the hotel's own restaurant in the evening. According to TripAdvisor, it is one of the best in town, with a small menu and very tasty food.
3rd cycling day: Kitzingen - Karlstadt, approx. 90 km with detours
Because of the predicted heat, we set off at 8.30 am at 23 degrees.
In Marktbreit, also a very nice little town, we changed sides of the Main on the recommendation of a nice Franconian and cycled directly along the Main to Würzburg, a very nice section.
In Würzburg we visited the city in 33 degree temperatures. During the first break, Matthias realized that he had lost his cell phone, however, the excitement was great. But you have to be lucky, when he called his number a young man answered who had found it, and he was kind enough to take it to the cathedral where we were sitting in a beer garden nearby. Delighted, very relieved and 20 euros poorer for the finder's fee, we were then able to continue our tour of the city.
Käppele pilgrimage church
We continued to Veitshöchheim to the Rococo Gardens, which we visited in quick succession due to the heat (38 degrees) and our knee injury. Then we went straight to the finish in Karlstadt, to the Hotel Mainpromenade, which, as the name suggests, is located directly on the Main with a lovely beer garden. Lacking the energy to look for a restaurant after the hot, exhausting day, we also ate here. We can recommend the hotel and the restaurant.
Show more Show less
4th cycling day: Karlstadt - Marktheidenfeld, approx. 60 km
(Departure at 8.30 am at a comfortable 33 degrees.)
In one go, I cycled the 30 kilometers directly to Lohr on a shady Mainweg. It was going to be hot, and it was.
On the detour to the Mariabuchen pilgrimage church, my chain got caught on a very steep climb when I downshifted and it was the end of the fun. Nothing worked anymore. After Hermann-Josef and Matthias were able to fix my bike in a makeshift manner, we set off in low gear to Lohr to the Brunner bike workshop, which was thankfully only six kilometers away. Thanks to the great road book, we quickly found what we were looking for. Here, a Franconian veteran bike repairer welcomed us and calmly inspected the damage. After two hours of sightseeing and a good meal in the Keiler brewery, we were able to pick up the bike again. 40 euros poorer and 20 pieces of good advice on how I should shift gears better in future, we were able to continue our beautiful journey.
In sweltering heat, 38 degrees, we then headed straight to the hotel in Marktheidenfeld. Unfortunately, the whole route, 30 kilometers, was completely in the sun. It was a really hot slog to the Hotel Zur schönen Aussicht. Totally sweaty, we first had a big wine spritzer and then into the shower. After a short break, we went sightseeing. We had another glass of wine at a Schoppenfenster and then dinner at the Gasthaus zum Stern. It was far too hot to eat outside, but inside it was very nice and cool. We were all very satisfied, the restaurant is highly recommended! The hotel too, by the way.
Lohr
5th cycling day: Marktheidenfeld - Miltenberg-Bürgstadt, approx. 60 km (departure 8.30 am at 22 degrees, it was really cool compared to the other days)
At 7.00 am there was a small thunderstorm with light rain, but this forced us to move breakfast to the hotel. By the time we set off, the thunderstorm had really cleared the air and we continued on to the last stage. As always, the route in the morning was along a shady riverside path. We only stopped twice in Wertheim and Freudenberg on this stage, which was well worth it. The temperature was pleasant, 25 degrees, and we first went to Miltenberg. It is also a beautiful, picturesque town that you should definitely visit.
Our hotel, Weinhaus Stern, was in Bürgstadt, so we went back two kilometers. Here, too, we ate at the hotel. The chef had broken his right hand, but still served us an excellent meal. The hotel was okay and the innkeepers had that special Franconian, tart charm that we encountered everywhere. Friendly and determined.
6th cycling day: Bürgstadt - Aschaffenburg, approx. 45 km
It was already time, the last stage lay ahead of us, so we were able to start the descent a little later. The route first took us to Wörth, which was the first place we didn't like.
A nice Franconian woman told us that the city tour only consisted of the traffic circle, which we had already driven through three times, and recommended that we visit the neighboring town of Erlenbach. It was a good tip.
We took our last break at the Honischland Beachclub & Bodega in the "village by the lake" due to an advertising banner above the road. An absolutely recommendable stop at the beautiful lake, also suitable for swimming. Then, after just six kilometers, we've made it! We have arrived.
We were already looking forward to our hotel, all the hotels had been great so far. However, the last hotel was not to our taste.
Johannisburg Castle, Aschaffenburg
Aschaffenburg
In the beautiful Schönbusch park, we found the "Hofgarten", a large beer garden. Then came a small highlight, an Italian restaurant called Da Claudio. As we hadn't booked in advance, we had to wait two hours for our food. It was worth it, very good food, great service. It's probably an in-location for locals, the landlord greeted most of them with a handshake. Highly recommended.
For a farewell drink, we later went to the bar 30leut' Die Bar am Pier, also highly recommended.
The pick-up from the hotel for the return trip to Bamberg also worked wonderfully. The driver was supposed to arrive between 09:00 and 10:00 and was there on time at 08:55. What more could you want. We were back in Bamberg at 11.30 a.m. and after briefly loading the cars, we headed home again.
Cheers to our wonderful, unforgettable bike tour.
Conclusion:
It was a very successful trip all round. We were impressed by the many historic, picturesque and interesting villages and towns and the wonderful Main Valley. The whole thing in bright sunshine, what could be better. Thanks to the great documentation from Radreisen, the tour was easy to master. The choice of hotels, down to the last one, the route, the general information in the road book, the tips, simply superb. We felt very well looked after. We are already looking for a new destination for next year.
