Travel report: The Swiss Lakes Route

Our guest Brigitte took the opportunity to cycle the Swiss Lakes Route alone in April 2024. Despite the mostly rainy weather, she looks back on a beautiful and eventful cycle tour on which she got to know four countries and three large lakes in eight days.

Arrival

I booked the first possible date from 14.4. – 21.04.2024 to cycle outside the main season. I accepted the fact that the weather is sometimes capricious in April. But I hadn't expected it to be this bad. I arrived by car, with my own bike in the trunk. I was able to park the car safely in the parking lot at Radweg-Reisen, I received a friendly welcome, was treated to ice cream and a drink and was promised that I would get help even if I was on the road with my own bike and had a breakdown. On the day of arrival, the temperatures were summery, so I left my luggage at the hotel and went on an excursion to the island of Mainau.

Day 1 of cycling

From Constance, I made my way to Schaffhausen. For the sake of completeness, I have to mention that I was traveling alone. The route description is good, I had GPS data on my cell phone in Komoot to be on the safe side and the cycle paths were very well signposted throughout. I know Lake Constance from previous cycle tours and as a paddler I have often been out on the lake and the Seerhein and Hochrhein. This time I enjoyed seeing the paddling routes from land. The first highlight was Stein am Rhein, a beautiful town. There I crossed the bridge where I stood two years ago to admire the fireworks on August 1 to mark Switzerland's national holiday. I continued on to Schaffhausen. There I cycled on to the Rhine Falls. In the tour description, this event was only planned for the next day, but as I still had enough energy left after 50 kilometers and arrived in the early afternoon, I still had enough time to get to the waterfall by boat and climb the rock. I then checked into the hotel and climbed the Munot fortress on foot and strolled through the old town.

Day 2 of cycling

From Schaffhausen, I headed towards the Rhine Falls again. I already knew the way, as I had mistakenly crossed to the other side of the Rhine the day before and came out at Schloss Laufen. It was only there that I realized that the boats were leaving from the other side and I had to cycle back. I followed the signs to Rheinfelden. This is where the Glatt flows into the Rhine. From here it was 25 kilometers along the Glatt, a very nice cycle path, always with a view of the river and no inclines. I stopped for a snack at the Katzensee and then cycled on to Zurich. I got scared when I realized that the cycle paths in Zurich sometimes run through the middle of the road and cars were driving to my right and left. Once I had got over the shock, I made it to the main train station and soon to the hotel. I parked the bike there and decided to just walk into the city. Zurich is full of sights and you can spend several days there without getting bored. I got an overview, took another look at Lake Zurich and made plans for the next day.

Day 3 of cycling

First, I cycled to the Grossmünster. It opens at 10 am and you can climb the tower. From up there, the view of the old town and the lake is supposed to be beautiful. However, I was disappointed as the view was obstructed by bars. By now it was raining, but that didn't stop me from crossing to the other side of the lake and cycling to Lindt. Chocolate dreams really do come true there, albeit at hefty prices. Back to the beginning, I started the bike tour along the golden coast of Lake Zurich, always in the rain. I had hoped to see more of the lake. However, the route led past the town villas above the lake and only occasionally did I get a brief glimpse of the lake. Once I arrived in Rapperswil, I went over the lake dam to Pfäffikon. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to take a closer look at the beautiful little towns as I was already completely soaked. On the Seedamm there was also a crosswind and the ride on the cycle path next to the cars was not very pleasant. Back on the mainland, the route between the road and the highway led to Lachen and my mood was at its lowest point. In Lachen, a hot shower and warm tea were waiting for me in the hotel, which made up for everything. What's more, the sun was suddenly shining, the lake was as smooth as glass in front of me and all was right with the world again.

Day 4 of cycling

Today I was supposed to cross the third lake, Lake Walen. In the travel documents, 16 kilometers were announced. Komoot showed 26 kilometers, so I set off early so that I would reach the ship in time at 10.20 am. In the end I had 30 kilometers on the speedometer, the weather was adventurous. It was getting colder by the day and I had to contend with sleet. Peter really made an effort to give me a lot of variety. The extra bike kilometers came about because I had overlooked a descent. From then on, I only cycled with Komoot to make sure I got to the boat on time. I had my cell phone in my pocket in the rain cover so that I could hear the announcements clearly. Unfortunately, water collected in the rain cover and my cell phone failed me. I arrived in Weesen at 9.45 a.m. and tried to save my cell phone by drying it in all sorts of ways, unfortunately in vain. At least the rain had stopped and the sun was shining. I was able to wring out my gloves and my hands were frozen through.

Day 5 of cycling

The next morning, I made another attempt to save my cell phone. At reception, I was given the name of a cell phone store that might be able to help me. Unfortunately without success. So I had to do without it, apparently there is also life without a cell phone. A postman on a bike showed me the way in and I cycled along the River Ill to Altstätten. I was lucky and reached the town station shortly before 10.00 a.m., the red train was already on the track. There were two wagons and no sign of a bike trailer. So I had to heave my pedelec up three steps. Two women helped me. They also told me that the bikes would be put on the trailer when the weather was nice. There doesn't seem to be much demand in the off-season. During the 20-minute ride, I wondered what awaited me up there. There was already snow on the meadows and it was raining again at the top. It was almost all downhill on the road as far as Appenzell. I continued straight on to Stein, as there were still a few more mountains to conquer. In Stein, I took a break in the cheese dairy and tasted Appenzeller cheese and drank whey. From there, the route continued idyllically between farms and meadows, the snow-covered mountains shrouded in mist. That would have been a pleasure in fine weather. I rode over the long Haggen bridge across a wooded gorge and on to St. Gallen. The receptionist at the Hotel Einstein was already waiting for me there and showed me the garage. He also got me some rice for my cell phone - hope dies last. In the evening, I relaxed in the warm water of the hotel's own swimming pool and unwinded in the sauna. I enjoy the evenings in the beautiful hotels on every cycling trip.

Day 6 of cycling

From St. Gallen, I headed back towards Lake Constance, first to Arbon, then Romanshorn and then along Lake Constance to Constance. The start initially caused me problems and it rained again from the sky. But then the route was well signposted and I found my way without any problems. Once I reached Lake Constance, the rain was joined by hail and I had to take shelter. Shortly before Kreuzlingen, the sun came out again and I was able to pack up my rain gear again. In Constance, I warmed up in the Rosgarten Museum and stopped off at the museum café. In a good mood, I made my way to Constance Minster and climbed the tower. The view was really worth it and I also caught sight of my next destination, the Bismarck Tower. I'll climb that next time. Finally, I treated myself to a visit to Sealife in Constance and then drove on to the hotel.

Day 7 of cycling

The seventh day was the day of departure. I was able to sleep in and enjoy breakfast in peace. To say goodbye to Lake Constance, I cycled to the island of Reichenau and went to church at St. George's Catholic Church. I had every reason to thank God for a successful trip without any mishaps or accidents. A guardian angel was always by my side, so I always found my way, with or without my cell phone. When I left the church, how could it be otherwise, it was raining again. With rain protection, I walked around the island and enjoyed the last views of Lake Constance. I'll be back in the summer and I'll bring my boat as well as my bike.

Conclusion:

I cycled 460 kilometers in 8 days and am really proud that I never chickened out and didn't take the train or boat despite the bad weather. Sometimes it occurred to me that at my age it would probably be better not to travel alone. And whether it would have been worth paying extra for a cycle tour at a later date, because then the weather might have been better and I would have been able to enjoy the beautiful landscape more. But would have, would have, bike chain... it was still nice and I would do it again. I'm already looking forward to the next bike trip, which I might win with this report.