Travel report: Cycling vacation in North Brittany

Inspiration, vaccination protection, idea: short-term vacation planning with a recommendation

I didn't even think about traveling this year for a long time. After a long lockdown and constantly changing risk areas, vacations are not as easy to plan as they were on my last bike trip two years ago. Where, what, when, how? But then it suddenly happens surprisingly quickly: inspired by vacation reports and recommendations from friends, plus - in contrast to other regions of France - low case numbers in Brittany, I think: not going away on vacation at all is also stupid, didn't I already have that in mind when I got the vaccine? Still a passionate leisure cyclist with good experience of cycle path trips, I take a look at the website to see what's on offer. As it turned out, my decision was as good as it was last minute.

Day 1: Arrival in Saint Malo

Where is the beach? I have to laugh at myself today and put it down to my tiredness after the journey. Google Maps shows a lot of beach in the immediate vicinity of the hotel. But there is only water. A ramp for launching boats and a ladder further out to sea. Two offshore islands in the sea. Nowhere is there even the slightest chance of getting to the water. Thick, high wooden stakes between the sea and the city wall. I didn't give it a second thought, but the mystery was solved during the extra days. More about this - and Saint Malo in general - at the end. Traveling to Brittany from the Stuttgart area is ideal for me with the TGV. Only 1 change in Paris, total travel time 8 hours. You can't do that by car and I don't need it on site. It's about 1.3 kilometers from the train station to the old city center, where the hotel is located. I push my suitcase along the dead-straight street, while the manif (demonstration) against the French government's coronavirus policy comes towards me, loud and framed by blue lights.

Day 3: Dinan - Combourg

To start, I head back down towards the port, where I arrived yesterday. A small path branches off under the viaduct, which - as I read in the description the previous evening and can see straight away - requires a little caution in wet conditions. It's raining now, of course. Despite the muddy path, some people are jogging, others are walking their dogs and people greet each other in a friendly manner. I particularly like the small village of Léhon with its monastery, which I soon reach. The dark sky and rain this morning give it a mystical air. Afterwards, an enchanting cycle path leads right along the banks of the River Rance and now the rain jacket can go in the bag because the sun is coming out.

Day 4: Combourg - Fougères

Today's stage is the most demanding. 8.00 a.m. breakfast, 9.30 a.m. departure, this has now become established and proven itself. The start, past the lake in the morning sun, is beautiful. We continue in this morning mood through picture-book villages such as Dingé, where a romantic 15th century castle can be seen. Well-kept and flower-decorated estates, lots of hydrangeas. Brittany as you would imagine it. No matter who you meet in this tranquil landscape, even the professional racing bike team coming towards me, you greet each other. I find another nice spot for a picnic. There is never a shortage of them. Either an official picnic spot in the countryside, or in a village where there are always nice benches on the well-kept, flower-decorated village square next to the bakery and butcher, near the Mairie (mayor's office).

I quickly reach Fougères in the afternoon and realize by now that Brittany is hilly and not flat. A tip for sightseeing: start in the beautiful public garden by the church at the top of the village, where the hotel is located. It's beautifully laid out in terraces, you have a wonderful view and can walk down to the castle and into the town.
Once we arrive at the castle below, we enjoy galettes (the ones made from dark flour) and cider tonight. It comes in a bulbous bottle with a cork, and once you've tasted it, you won't like the cider from the supermarket in Germany. For dessert, a pêche-melba with lots of crème chantilly - mmmhhh...

Day 5: Fougères - Pontorson

A look at today's elevation profile: moderate ups and downs, but a steeper climb shortly before the end, then flat, then a steeper descent. I am excited. I cycle through typical Breton villages again and past very elegant, spacious country houses with beautifully manicured gardens. After the village of Artrain, I cycle uphill on the cycle lane parallel to the road. A little uncomfortable and long.

Day 6: Pontorson - Cancale

Breakfast in the garden of the manor house - pure romance. Everything I ordered the night before is served to me portioned and covered in a coronavirus-friendly way. From the jam to some cold milk for the muesli. What a great start to the day. Still a little sore from the conditional highlight the day before yesterday, the cultural highlight of the tour is on the agenda today - Mont Saint Michel. From Pontorson, it's 7 kilometers straight along the river to Mont Saint Michel. It is soon visible from afar. Arriving at the bike parking lot, I take the free Navette (shuttle). Breathtaking and very busy, I have already visited it in winter and only stay for a short time. The onward journey to Cancale first takes me across fields and past old salt pans and later directly along the coast. Beautifully maintained cycle paths, brightly colored groups of surfers and lots and lots of sea. Surprisingly, we cycle uphill again away from the coast and then down to Cancale with a wonderful view. Here it is obligatory to try oysters. The digestive walk gives me an idea of how the day will begin tomorrow: a steep climb up to the Mairie of Cancale, from where we continue to Saint Malo and where we can stock up on water and snacks for the last stage. But first, I enjoy the view over the sea with the windows wide open and fall asleep to the soothing sound of the sea.

Saint Malo - a few more days of relaxation at the end of the cycle tour

Saint Malo is too good just for the arrival and departure day. The town is beautiful. So is the beach, provided the tide is low. Swimmers, jumpers, joggers and mudflat walkers - there's something for everyone within the time window. There are also shallow areas for children and group courses in various water sports are offered. A walk on the city wall, where you can walk around the entire old city center with a view of the harbor, the sea and the old town, should not be missed.
The offshore islands are highly recommended. Grand Bé is so beautifully renaturalized, you have a great view of Saint Malo. The French writer Chateaubriand is buried there and you can also find out why he chose this place as his final resting place. Anyone who forgets the time here and finds the way back already washed over - swimming is life-threatening and forbidden due to the current - would then have to stay on the island until the next low tide. Although, honestly, there are certainly worse things. I also visited the aquarium in Saint Malo and can highly recommend it. You can buy tickets in advance (e.g. at the hotel), which has the advantage of being let in quickly.