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Travel report: Cycling vacation on the German Danube
From our guest Katja
Everything had actually been planned quite differently...
I actually wanted to use my "sabbatical" to explore faraway countries and travel in a relaxed manner. But in 2021, everything turned out differently: plans were made, discarded and rethought. My trip to Oceania turned into a cycle tour in southern Germany and a 14-day tour along the German Danube eventually became a 6-day tour from Donaueschingen along the Danube via Wangen in Allgäu to Lake Constance. But I experienced wonderful, fulfilling and unforgettably beautiful moments on this trip, which I would like to tell you about.
I traveled alone. Both my parents and friends were totally surprised: "Alone? - That wouldn't be for me!" But that's exactly what I wanted to try out; on the one hand, because at the time - when travel became possible again in early summer 2021 - I was the only one in my family who had 'time off' in mid to late June, and on the other hand, I was curious to see how I would feel about traveling alone by bike for a week. To say it up front: I didn't regret it and can definitely imagine going on further trips with Radweg-Reisen as well as traveling alone.
I always found it a pleasure to have time for myself, to pursue my thoughts while cycling, to plan the stages at my own pace, to be on the move and to experience wonderful, diverse nature. At the same time, I was very happy that I had a very competent and committed organizer and contact person in Radweg-Reisen. It gave me a sense of security to know in the morning which destination I would arrive at during the course of the day, that a room had already been reserved for me there and also that - in the event of an emergency - I had addresses and telephone numbers and could have contacted people if a breakdown or problem had occurred.
The arrival day - arrival in Donaueschingen, first test ride
I started on a Thursday in mid-June 2021. I arrived in Donaueschingen by train in the afternoon. I was already expected at the "Zum Hirschen" hotel. My rental bike was in the garage and my travel documents (with tour and hotel descriptions, addresses and cycle route maps) were ready for me at reception. As soon as I had checked in, I wanted to test out my bike. At first it was actually a bit strange to me, the bike: handlebars, saddle and a very unfamiliar hub gear. But after just a few hundred meters along the Brigach, I got used to the bike and coped well with the gears and the slightly different "sitting and riding experience".
In Donaueschingen, I headed for two stops to start my trip:
1. The source of the Danube: It looks more like an imposing fountain in the immediate vicinity of the castle and castle park.
2. The Bräustüble of the Fürstenberg brewery: Here I experienced for the first time what happened to me again and again on my trip after months of restrictions: finally being able to stop for a bite to eat "spontaneously" again. I am very grateful that I was able to spontaneously enjoy a drink or a meal outside in the glorious early summer weather after briefly presenting my vaccination certificate! It already felt like a vacation.
DAY 1: From Donaueschingen to Fridingen
After breakfast, I set off on my first stage full of anticipation and curiosity:
From Donaueschingen to Fridingen. My luggage was collected at 9.00 a.m. and I was given a second saddle bag so that I always had enough to drink and a small snack as well as rain and spare clothing with me on the way.
The route took us past meadows, through forests and pretty villages along the young Danube to the Danube sinkhole - a place where the Danube disappears into the crevices and holes in the limestone for over 200 meters in midsummer. However, after the heavy rain of recent weeks, the Danube was very low in some places in June, but did not disappear completely.
I have to admit that I hadn't read very good things about the Hotel-Gasthof Sonne in another travel report and cycled to Fridingen with little expectations. I was all the more surprised when I got there. I arrived on a rest day, but everything had been perfectly prepared: in the entrance area I found a nice little letter with information and the chip card for the side and room doors. The bike garage was labeled and the garage door was ajar so that I could store my bike safely. My luggage was already waiting in the hallway and I found a beautiful, newly renovated room.
On the cycle path to Fridingen
DAY 2: From Fridingen to Sigmaringen
I enjoyed a delicious, hearty breakfast and set off on one of the most beautiful stretches of my tour, well fortified. From Fridingen, the cycle path leads along the Danube through a beautiful valley: the narrow Danube meanders through meadows, forests and huge limestone cliffs. On one section of the cycle route, you cycle through very quiet areas where only the babbling of the river can be heard - this stage is enchanting, calming and soothing.
In contrast, I experienced more hustle and bustle on the rest of the route: the section between Beuron Monastery and Gutenstein is very popular with canoeists and is also very busy in places. In Inzighofen, I stopped off at Winkel-Hof, a lovely organic farm store with a cozy farm café. Delicious Dinnele are prepared in the wood-fired oven and served with homemade juice or cider.
Hohenzollern Castle Sigmaringen
In the early afternoon, I arrived in Sigmaringen and first drove to the "Garni Jägerhof" hotel. Mr. Zeller gave me a friendly welcome, showed me around the hotel, my very nice room, the coffee corner and the garden, which was a great place to sit and relax, and explained to me which walking route he would recommend through Sigmaringen.
After a refreshing shower, I walked into the town center of Sigmaringen. The stately castle no longer admits visitors after 4 p.m. and so my voucher for admission and a guided tour remained unused. The town center is quickly explored and offers nice places here and there to linger or stop for a bite to eat. In the evening, I enjoyed sitting in the hotel garden, reading and familiarizing myself with the route that awaited me the next day.
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DAY 3: From Sigmaringen to Bad Waldsee
Although there were still very few guests at the Jägerhof in June 2021, a wonderful, sumptuous breakfast was offered. Everything was lovingly arranged and prepared and Mr. Zeller clearly enjoys pampering his guests and making their stay in his hotel as pleasant as possible.
From Sigmaringen, I cycled another section of the Danube cycle path. I said goodbye to the Danube in Mengen and cycled southwest to Bad Saulgau and from there along fields and up some hills to Oberatzenberg, from where you can enjoy a wonderful panoramic view. Here the landscape already looks like the Allgäu: meadows and pastures, narrow roads with hardly any traffic, lots of hills and here and there a farm with an unmistakable country air. Shortly before Aulendorf, I took a break at the Jägerhof Inn in Ebisweiler and enjoyed a good lunch in an idyllic location with a wonderful view.
Corn poppy on the cycle path
Cycling with a vision
On this 3rd day in the saddle, I was really glad when I arrived at the hotel in Bad Waldsee after a good 65 kilometers. The "Grüner Baum" hotel is in the middle of the town - very centrally located right on the town hall square. From my hotel room, I had a view of the town hall square, beautiful half-timbered houses and the center of the very tranquil little town.
On Sundays, the town center is very lively and the barrel organ players entertained the hotel guests for hours with barrel organ music. A matter of taste. The hotel is lovingly and very originally furnished and has a charm all of its own. The fact that the baked goods from the neighboring bakery are loudly unloaded and stacked at 4.30 a.m. cannot be held against the hotel, nor can the fact that the streets and paths in the city center were completely renovated in June 2021. The construction site was right in front of the hotel.
View of the town hall square in Bad Waldsee
DAY 4: From Bad Waldsee to Wangen im Allgäu
I started my next stage to Wangen im Allgäu very early that day. A loud "Oooh!" escaped me on the first hill when I first saw the snow-covered Alps in the distance. On this stage along lush green meadows, I kept cycling directly towards this imposing mountain range.
However, this was the first and only time on this day that I lost the joy of cycling for a short time: in a section of forest before Wolfegg, the forest path turned into a gravel road that led steadily uphill. Again and again, my bike broke off on the track with the fist-sized pebbles, slipped and tipped to one side. In the end, I had no choice but to push my heavy bike up the hill. After a good half hour, I arrived at the top of the hill, sweaty and completely out of breath, but was immediately rewarded with a wonderful view of the distance. The rest of the route to Wangen was again very pleasant to cycle, passing through small villages, meadows and farms.
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The Allgäu
I arrived in Wangen im Allgäu early in the afternoon. The "Zur Alten Post" hotel is very centrally located in the town center. In this venerable house with its creaky wooden floors and high rooms, you feel like you've been transported back centuries. My grandparents would certainly have been delighted with my hotel room with its rustic furniture and flowery, tiled bathroom with a bathtub instead of a shower.
Wangen is a very pretty little town with a nice city center. Here, one café follows the next and small stores invite you to stroll around. The old town gates and remains of the town wall are reminders that the town was well fortified in the Middle Ages.
Wangen in the Allgäu
DAY 5: From Wangen im Allgäu to Constance
Today was a long and very varied stage on the program. First, I cycled through the beautiful Allgäu region, through small villages and past many farms. Always fascinated by the beautiful landscape and the view of the mountains, the varied route is very easy to cycle.
And suddenly this panorama is perfected by the view of Lake Constance. The lake lies picturesquely in front of you and the snow-capped Alps stretch out in the background.
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I first cycled to Lindau, circumnavigated Lindau Island and cycled along the lakeshore westwards through Wasserburg, Kressbronn to Friedrichshafen.
After a short visit to the Zeppelin Museum, I took the catamaran across the lake to Constance. It was amazing how fast this boat flew across the lake and how you can enjoy a wonderful view of the lakeshore and the mountains in the background.
The catamaran
The "Ibis" hotel is very centrally located. The train station, the old town, the lakeshore and the banks of the Rhine are just a few minutes' walk away. I received a very friendly welcome and moved into a very nice, quiet room. That day was the first and only time that I arrived at the hotel before my luggage. I had always followed the good advice of Radweg-Reisen and carried a complete set of fresh, summery clothes and light sandals in my saddle bag. Today, for the first time, I took the opportunity to put on these spare clothes after a refreshing shower.
In the evening, I strolled through the beautiful city center and found a very nice spot for the public viewing of the international match between Germany and France at Euro 2021.
The Seestrasse in Constance
DAY 6: On Lake Constance - a tour around Untersee
After an extensive breakfast at the rich and varied buffet, I was ready for my longest cycle tour. I first cycled through the old town to get to Kreuzlingen and thus to the Swiss side of Untersee. It took me a little while to get used to the somewhat different and sometimes sparse signposting of the cycle paths. In Germany, the cycle route is marked with a cycle path sign at almost every junction or bend. In contrast, the signposting in Switzerland seemed a little sparser to me. And so it happened from time to time on my Swiss stage that I cycled back a bit to make sure I was still on the cycle route or to correct my course from time to time.
In the end, I found the cycle path that leads around the entire Untersee. This route leads up and down small hills, through picturesque villages and sometimes directly along the lakeshore.
View of the Rhine from the cycle path
The village of Stein am Rhein is particularly beautiful, although it is visited by many tourists. The cycle path is quite busy, but if you stray from the route for a moment or are looking for a nice spot for a break, it can be very quiet just a few meters from the cycle path.
I did this tour on a day in June that was very hot and humid, so I took lots of breaks, treated myself to a cool apple spritzer here and there and took the opportunity to fill up my water bottles in the restaurants.
Stein on the Rhine
Farewell to Lake Constance
DAY OF DEPARTURE: Back home from Constance / My conclusion
The "Ibis" hotel in Constance allows you to take a very relaxed approach to the day of departure, as you don't have to check out before 12.00 noon. So after sleeping in, I was able to pack my luggage in peace, enjoy a delicious breakfast and check out. My train route initially took me along Untersee, which I had driven around the day before. I also rediscovered the first section between Donaueschingen and Immendingen from the train and was surprised that this first stage of my cycle tour seemed so long ago. I realized very clearly how much I had seen and experienced in those few days and how refreshed I was on my return journey.
I would very much like to do another tour with Radweg-Reisen, take much less luggage with me and plan stages again where I am challenged on the one hand but also arrive at my destinations and stopovers relaxed so that I can explore the towns, cities and the surrounding area. The length of the stages was just right for me: I cycled an average of 60 kilometers a day - at the beginning the distances were rather shorter and this increased over the course of the week.
What impressed me about Radweg-Reisen was how smoothly everything went, how reliably my luggage was transported from hotel to hotel, the excellent condition of my rental bike and the travel documents put together especially for me: bike maps, route descriptions, tips, contact addresses, etc. I was given all the information I needed. All the information I needed had been put together very clearly for me. Nothing was missing, there were no unpleasant incidents, no breakdowns, I was in beautiful places and met very nice people.
My conclusion: you don't have to travel far or for very long to have a good rest and a great vacation.
