Travel report: Cycling tour along the Loire
From our guest Regine
A fantastic cycle tour through the Loire region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A very special charm characterized by castles and estates, embedded in beautiful river landscapes. A combination that leaves you enchanted and amazed. In summer 2019, Regine cycled the Cycle tour along the Loire. And Regine tells us in detail in her travel report how the trip can also be fun on your own.
Show more Show lessCycling alone? Does that work? Is it fun?
I was and am often asked this question before I talk about my vacation with radweg-reisen.com, as I am doing now. To anticipate the answer:
Yes, it works really well!
Because everything is very precisely described and well organized. And yes, I really enjoyed it. Because I always had pleasant and funny encounters with small groups or families. All with the same goal as me. All relaxed, impressed, happy. Sometimes me at the front, sometimes the others and when you meet up again, nice short conversations. Plus natural landscapes straight out of a picture book, castles like in a fairy tale and - perfect summer weather.
Show more Show lessDay 1 - Arrival in Orléans
As a thrifty Swabian, I naturally took the early TGV (6.55 a.m. from Stuttgart main station) because it's the cheapest. It also has the advantage that I'm already in Orléans by midday, leaving me time to explore the city. A quick check-in first. The documents tell me how to get from the station to the hotel by streetcar on lines A and B. The hotel is located directly on the Loire, in a surprisingly green setting for a large city. The friendly hotelier gives me the tour kit: maps, sights, timetables, a booklet describing the stages and detours, including mileage to compare with the speedometer for my handlebar bag - I can manage that.
But now back to the city on the streetcar. It's hot. And there's a lot going on this Saturday afternoon. A basketball competition on the Place du Martoi, in the middle of which stands the large statue of Jeanne d'Arc . The national heroine is everywhere here. The street, which is magnificently decorated with flowers and flags and along which I walk to the cathedral, is also named after her.
By the time I've licked my ice cream, the happy wedding party has left and I can visit the inside of the Sainte Croix cathedral. Which is really worthwhile, if only for the window motifs. I also go to the Maison de Jeanne d'Arc and Hotel Groslot from the 16th century.
How convenient that I've booked half board and don't have to worry about anything in the evening. Before I go to bed well fed (3 courses) and very tired, I take a look at the Loire flowing quietly behind the hotel, along whose banks I will spend the next few days.
Show more Show lessDay 2 - From Orléans to Beaugency
First, I put everything I don't need for the day in my suitcase. This is routine for the next few days. The suitcase goes to reception and awaits me at the next hotel.
After breakfast at 8.30am, briefing for the week and bike handover. All the cyclists starting today meet up. Mostly Germans or Italians, which has to do with the organizer. Like me, an astonishing number of them have rented their bikes. Bright orange with all the accessories. A short test lap, everything perfect, ready to go.
Before crossing the Loire on the Europabrücke bridge, a short photo session: a small group, easily recognizable with high-visibility vests (actually mandatory in France on roads outside towns) started at the same time as me. A group photo for them, an individual photo of the start for me.
This is followed by a drive through beautiful, lonely nature. You can see that every plant here always gets enough water and sun. At the roadside picnic, a group passes by - we know each other from this morning. Poppies are in bloom, white butterflies and lemon butterflies are fluttering.
Day 3 - From Beaugency to Blois
I slept very well in the family-run hotel in the middle of medieval Beaugency. The little fuzzy dog, which the landlady calls her aspirateur (vacuum cleaner) because it meticulously cleans the floor of fallen crumbs in the breakfast room, is cute. The host family is experienced in the German language and in using Allen keys and wrenches - after the first day, some of the cyclists still have questions or need to adjust a few small things on their bikes.
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Today is all about Chambord Castle. Even the drive through the large forest and then suddenly standing at the gate to the park with the sign reading Parc de Chambord and the French lily is gigantic. After a short drive through the park, the castle appears in the background - incomparable architecture with its many towers - simply majestic.
In addition to a short picnic, I plan a longer lunch break here to visit this hunting lodge, which has never really been inhabited. The group from Italy and the family with the two daughters I know from the start are also there.
I'm particularly looking forward to the evening in Blois today because I'm meeting French friends who are also on vacation in the area. We're amused by the innkeeper, who explains that the menu on the ardoise (slate) is only for cyclists. And there's plenty to talk about...
Day 4 - From Blois to Amboise
When leaving Blois, it's essential to take a look back. The grand staircase with the Mona Lisa picture, the castle, the church, the bridge...
Shortly afterwards, a short detour with a somewhat steeper climb to the first bakery recommended in the documents. Initially well signposted in the village, this unfortunately stops at some point and after a short unsuccessful search, I ask around.
Of course, I have chosen the wrong direction, as has the Italian family following me with the same destination. We all reach the bakery together. Salty or sweet, the selection makes everyone's mouth water and although I've had a good breakfast, I can hardly wait for the picnic today. The onward journey is generally a bit hilly, but not too bad. At lunchtime, there is an opportunity to visit Chaumont Castle, which is famous for its garden show, which many cyclists do.
The ride from the top is idyllic with a wonderful view over the town down to Amboise. In the evening, Amboise offers real entertainment with music and street parades. And when it gets dark, the illuminated castle has a very special flair when viewed from the middle island of the Loire.
Day 5 - From Amboise to Tours
Away from the Loire, I cycle slightly uphill out of Amboise and from now on through the Touraine region. First on my agenda is the charming château of Chenonceau. A moated castle built on the river Cher and shaped by women. I visit the garden, wine cellar, castle pharmacy and World War I hospital - there is so much to see and experience here that time passes quickly.
In place of the Loire, the Cher now has an interlude as my travel companion. Different, quieter than the Loire. The journey along the Cher to Tours is actually not difficult, but it does drag on. I don't arrive until after 7.00 pm. Amazing - my bike is the only orange one in the hotel's storage room.
The next morning, it's one of many - so I was probably the first anyway? The central location of the hotel and the day in Tours without half-board suit my plan very well given the late hour: a quick shower, a trip to McDonald's directly opposite and the rest of the daylight used for at least a short tour of the city.
The hotel itself is different from the others and is in itself a travel experience for me. Grand Hotel de Tours, right next to the train station. Built in 1927 and preserved in this style, modernized of course. I like time travel like this and imagine what it must have been like here in the 1930s while sitting at a window table on the Belle Etage at breakfast. That the guests back then didn't sit here in cyclist outfits like me. You can clearly see in the architecture where the old elevator known from French films used to be.
Day 6 - From Tours to Chinon
As expected, the ride out of Tours takes a while. But the way the French cyclists ignore the traffic lights - I don't dare to do that.
Today, I have made it my goal to take a sightseeing break. Which is already very difficult at the first castle - Villandry with its beautiful gardens, which I only turn off to briefly. Shortly after Vilandry, the Cher flows into the Loire. Around midday, I meet up again with the nice North German family who want to make a detour to the castle Azay le Rideau. The enigmatic forest of signs on the road only allows us to speculate as to whether this is possible or not.
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Later, I pass Ussé Castle - pure romance. The approach over the bridge, the way it lies there in the background... I can understand why it inspired a writer to write the French version of Sleeping Beauty. Away from the Loire, we ride the last few kilometers for today to Chinon. First a gray industrial area, but then - from the castle - a wonderful view of the city. Downhill into the city - I really wanted to try out the great elevator for pedestrians. Unfortunately, even without the castle tour, it's already relatively late.
At the hotel, some people are already relaxed and fresh. They had a bike-free day. Also a good idea, as the train connection on this stage was ideal for this.
In the evening, I meet up with my French friends again. Of course, we toast with a glass of Chinon. In the pub under the trees that belongs to the hotel, right on the banks of the Vienne.
Show more Show lessDay 7 - From Chinon to Saumur
The last stage of the journey takes me along the Vienne from Chinon to the beautiful village of Candes St-Martin. This is where the Touraine ends and the province of Anjou begins. I leave my bike at the church to walk to the viewpoint following the travel tips, from where you can see the confluence of the Vienne and Loire rivers.
Back at the church, I can have fun playing our game of hare and hedgehog with the cyclists who have just arrived.
The journey continues - a little more hilly today - through wide vineyards with wonderful views. For several kilometers, you have a wonderful view down to the river, bridge - and finally Saumur.
A little further on - the castle appears right in front of me: The way it stands there in the sun above Saumur and the Loire - fantastic.
The ride behind the castle descends steeply into the village. There's a lot going on there - the national holiday is just around the corner. How funny the streets are decorated with colorful umbrellas.
My room in the hotel, which is centrally located as always, is all dark purple this time. And there's a mini balcony with chairs and the option of making a coffee. I make it first and enjoy it on the small balcony. Glad to have arrived safely!
I'm glad everything went so well!
So many impressive things to see and interesting things to learn. How wide the Loire is, and yet not navigable on my entire stage due to its nature, only the occasional fishing boat. Traveled alone but not lonely - pleasant encounters along the way and in the accommodation.
Much is going through my mind now. And I remember that the Loire still has a long way to go before it reaches the ocean - and I want to follow it there on my next vacation...
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