Travel report: Cycling vacation in South Tyrol
From our guests Bernhard and Beate
In search of a real nostalgia vacation, Bernhard and Beate set off along the cycle paths of northern Italy.
At the end of July 2019, the time had finally come. Sunglasses on their noses, suitcases in the car and off they went. The cycling vacation in South Tyrol was calling!
Since we had already been to South Tyrol with our parents as children, we had the idea for a nostalgic vacation while browsing through the cycle path travel catalog: by car over the Brenner Pass, sunny days in the Vinschgau Valley with apple orchards and vineyards. Even though the route profile looks moderate at 2 out of 5 points, we decide to use e-bikes. Before the actual start of the cycle tour, we treat ourselves to 2 extra nights in Brixen, the starting point.
Bressanone
Our hotel Grüner Baum is centrally located and right on the Eisack river: very nice. The room is spacious, the breakfast varied, and the staff very friendly. We parked in the courtyard for a fee, used the great pool and spent two days exploring the town, which can be reached via a small pedestrian bridge. The Italian ice cream is not praised for nothing, the pubs and restaurants are magical (3 Fiori, Altes Schlachthaus).
Show more Show lessDay 1: Alta Pusteria / Dobbiaco - Bressanone
Finally, we're off! But patience is required: before we even get on our bikes, we take the minibus uphill for over an hour to Dobbiaco. Once there, we are greeted by the local partner FUNActive Tours, then the bikes are handed out (very good KTM bikes) including a short test lap. Then we ride 60 km (only downhill) back towards Brixen.
The route is fun! It is very varied. Sometimes right and left along the Rienz or the country road or over a wooden bridge into the forest. Beautiful!
However, the relatively heavy (oncoming) bike traffic requires constant attention. Shortly before the end, we lose our way and have to study the map and directions very carefully in order to reach Neustift Monastery and Brixen. We cycle a total of 74 km, which is quite long for the first day - pizza and red wine do the rest....
Day 2: Bressanone - Bolzano
In perfect weather, as on the previous day, we cycle along the Adige to Bolzano. The path is often shady and mostly slightly downhill. There are illuminated cycle tunnels! Take a break in Klausen at the beautiful village square with a nice café. Continue on the asphalted cycle path and later take a leisurely break at an organic bike station with a beer garden. The hosts are friendly everywhere and the food is good and reasonably priced.
In Bolzano, we immediately notice the well-developed urban cycle paths. At 5 pm we are at the Ötzi Museum - great! Our hotel is just outside and unfortunately only offers a small 15 m² room for 2 nights. We store our suitcases on the balcony.
Day 3: Bolzano - Caldaro - Bolzano
At 09.00 in the morning, it's already 30 degrees. After some searching, we find the start of the circular route towards Lake Kaltern.
The first third is steadily uphill, following an old railroad line (thanks e-bikes!). Then it's a lively descent through beautiful vineyards to Lake Kaltern, where we stop at a small outdoor pool (called Lido) to cool off. The warmest bathing lake in South Tyrol. We continue at ground level on well-signposted cycle paths along the Adige.
Very beautiful scenery, every stage is different, we are thrilled.
Day 4: Bolzano - Merano
Trip to Merano including hotel change. Getting the suitcases ready by 9 a.m. is sometimes stressful, but transportation to the next location always works well, by 6 p.m. at the latest. Running gag: "ds G'päck kommt gleich!"
Today we can choose between a) a flat route along the Adige river and b) a somewhat hilly route through the vineyards. We opt for half of each, both beautiful routes. At a) we are hit by the only shower of the entire cycle tour. We just manage to reach a refreshment stop. At b) we take a break in Nals, visit a beautiful village church and enjoy the spotlessly clean public toilets, just like everywhere else in South Tyrol!
We easily find our hotel Flora in Merano/Meran, which is located directly on the Passer River. It's close to the city and has a pool - great.
Day 5: Mals - Meran
As on the first day, today's journey to the starting point is a long one: first to the train station, load the bike, take the Regio to Schlanders, then the bus to Mals... We don't reach the starting point until around 12.00 noon.
The way back downhill along the Adige is again wonderfully varied: meadows, forest paths through a nature reserve, then a serpentine cycle path just before Merano. Unfortunately, my battery dies just before the end of the tour, so I have to push the e-bike the last few kilometers to the hotel without assistance. It's not until the next morning that the hotline or the bike station at the main train station can help me, and they quickly find the electronic fault. Before and after that, the bike works perfectly. However, we both have stress with the handlebar bags, whose Velcro fasteners are constantly coming loose. They are obviously not designed for long handlebar stems...
Show more Show lessDay 6: Merano - Jaufenpass - Vipiteno - Bressanone
Today we have to pack and have breakfast by 9.00 a.m., as we have a bus transfer planned to the Jaufen Pass. After about an hour, we stop briefly at 2094 m. After an espresso, some of our fellow travelers ride their bikes from here and we continue by bus to the cozy Fugger town of Sterzing. There we enjoy regional specialties before riding a final downhill route to Brixen.
It is also very hot today, we visit a hydroelectric power station in the forest, regret the current closure of Lake Varna, take a short break at a winery near Neustift Monastery, and finish our tour in the pool of the Grüner Baum hotel.
Conclusion
The trip met all our expectations: The routes were varied, the people everywhere friendly, the food delicious and the organization worked smoothly. We love the "active relaxation" of cycling combined with the little freedom in terms of breaks and pace. The next cycling trip is already being planned.
